Generally, the warp patterns are half as much as the weft patterns, and the 63 degree twill weaves are selected from the 45 degree twill weaves. First, a 45 degree twill weave is selected. Then the odd or even numbered warps are brought side by side. Thus, the weft pattern is the same compared to the 45 degree twill, but a new twill weave is obtained at half the warp pattern, which is similar to these weaves due to the 63 degree twill path. 63 GRADE TWILL BRAID or DIAGONAL TWILL BRAID is called.
DIAGONAL TWILL BRAID
1-Diagonal Twill Weave in Warp Direction
2-Weft Direction Diagonal Twill Weave
It is of two kinds.
Diagonal twill weave in the weft direction
Basic twill weaves are used to obtain diagonal twill weaves in the weft direction. After the twill weave is drawn, the first weft yarn movement of the weave is marked as the first weft yarn in the report area of the weave to be created. Knitting is created by shifting the connection points in the direction of the weft yarn according to the number of jumps. While calculating the report area of the diagonal twill weave in the weft direction, the value obtained by dividing the given twill pattern wire number by the number of skips is taken into account. If the number of report wires is not divisible by the number of jumper wires, the number of report warp and weft wires is equal to the number of report wires.
In case of complete division, the number of division values obtained gives the number of weft wires, and the number of report wires gives the number of warp wires. (For example, if 6+6 = 12, 12 gives the number of warp wires, if 12:6 = 6, it gives the number of weft wires).
Örnek
Let's get a diagonal weave in the weft direction from its knitting.
1-First, we need to determine the number of warp and weft wires of the diagonal weave in the weft direction.
Here;
We add the numbers above and below the knitting line. 4+3 = 7 This result gave us the number of warp and weft wires that the twill weave should contain in the pattern. Since the number 7 we have obtained cannot be exactly divisible by 2, as a rule, the warp wire number of the diagonal weave in the warp direction is 7 and the weft wire number is 7.
2- First, we make the twill weave, which is the basis of the diagonal weave in the weft direction.
3- We make the movement in the first weft wire of the twill weave, which is the basis of the diagonal weave in the weft direction seen above, from left to right to the first weft yarn.
4- On the second weft yarn, we write the movements in the first weft yarn from left to right by increasing two.
5- On the third weft thread, we write the movements in the second weft thread from left to right by increasing two.
6- On the fourth weft thread, we write the movements in the third weft thread from left to right by increasing two.
7- On the fifth weft thread, we write the movements in the fourth weft thread from left to right by increasing two.
8- On the sixth weft thread, we write the movements in the fifth weft thread from left to right by increasing two.
9- On the seventh weft thread, we write the movements in the sixth weft thread from left to right by increasing two.
Thus, we draw the diagonal weave in the weft direction.
10-Drawing and dobby plan
11-Warp and weft section
Örnek
Let's get a diagonal weave in the weft direction from its knitting.
1-First, we need to determine the number of warp and weft wires of the diagonal weave in the weft direction.
Here;
We add the numbers above and below the knitting line. 3+3+2+2+1+1 = 12 This result gave us the number of warp and weft wires that the twill weave should contain in the pattern. Since the number 12 we obtained is exactly divisible by 2, as a rule, the number of warp wires of the diagonal weave in the warp direction is 12 and the number of weft wires is 6.
2-First, we make the twill weave, which is the basis of the diagonal weave in the weft direction.
3- We make the movement in the first weft wire of the twill weave, which is the basis of the diagonal weave in the weft direction seen above, from left to right to the first weft yarn.
4- On the second weft yarn, we write the movements in the first weft yarn from left to right by increasing two.
5- On the third weft thread, we write the movements in the second weft thread from left to right by increasing two.
6- On the fourth weft thread, we write the movements in the third weft thread from left to right by increasing two.
7- On the fifth weft thread, we write the movements in the fourth weft thread from left to right by increasing two.
8- On the sixth weft thread, we write the movements in the fifth weft thread from left to right by increasing two.
Thus, we draw the diagonal weave in the weft direction.
9-Drawing and dobby plan
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