Buldan is a district of Denizli, which was established in the 2nd century BC and is famous for its textile and weaving. Researches have shown that before the Turks came to Anatolia, the people of Ancient Tripolis, known as Yenice city today, knew weaving and that the local people, who came under the rule of the Seljuk Turks in 1094, taught weaving to the Turks. Since the region has all kinds of commercial goods and is on trade routes, those who come to the region for shopping say to each other, "BUL DA BUY". BULDAN gave rise to the word. The embroidery of this cloth, which is also defined as "twisted" according to Ottoman documents, is woven from cotton yarn, also called "kivrak", which is more twisted than normal yarn; 14 density/cm warp-14 density/cm weft is in the form. Traditional motifs woven with colored silk or cotton, which reflect the cultural identity of the region, are generally used in weaving. Clothes made of Buldan cloth; They are natural, healthy and comfortable, they do not contain chemicals. With the increase in the number of motorized looms in recent years, mass production has accelerated, and today Buldan and Denizli have become a sought-after market abroad.
After the establishment of the Ottoman Empire, some of the weaving needs of the palace were provided from BULDAN. Ertuğrul Gazi's underwear, Barbaros' shawl, and Sultan Genç Osman's shirt were woven in Buldan. The motifs in Turkish woven fabrics and embroidery are generally herbal. Flowers and various branches such as tulips, carnations, especially XVI. century has been used a lot. Patterns are geometric vegetal, colors are mainly red, tile blue, sorghum, baked quince and saffron yellow. This tradition is clearly seen in BULDAN weaving and embroidery. These examples are exhibited in the Topkapı Palace Museum. In Tahsin Öz's work 'Turkish Fabrics and Velvets', it is written that there are two caftans recorded as 14th century Denizli fabric in the Topkapı Palace fabric warehouse and kept as the caftan of the first Ottoman sultans. These caftans fit the descriptions of the woven caftan woven in Denizli, which is mentioned among the legacy of Osman I in the history of Nesri. Evliya Çelebi, who went to Denizli in the 17th century, wrote in his travel book that the white cotton cloth of Akdağ is thinner than the Persian and Mosul cloths. In the 14th century, Ibn Batuda said, “There is a gold-embroidered fabric made of cotton, which has no other example. Due to the strong spun of quality cotton, their weaving is long-lasting. This fabric is named after the town. It is a historical document of Buldan cloth and Buldan weaving.
In terms of meaning, the word Bürümcü, which is based on dressing, wrapping, and covering, means weaving, woven with highly twisted silk threads in weaving. Instead of silk thread, highly twisted, wool, linen or cotton, weavings with wrinkled surface appearance are called Kıvrak”, “Bükülü Cloth” or “Mora Cloth”, “Buldan Cloth”, “Şile Cloth”, which is popularly known as Kıvrak”, “Bükülü Cloth” or local name. has been recognized. However, since motorized looms and hand looms could not compete with the majority, the discontinuous and sporadic hand looms were twisted.
When the name Şile cloth began to be heard as twisted, the twisted meringue was named after the district and started to be called Buldan cloth, both as a competition and a desire to separate it. Due to all these name changes, although every name is used in the district, the name twisted or crepe is the most used. Clothes made of buldan cloth (cress) are natural and comfortable clothes. They are cotton, they do not sweat, they allow the body to breathe, keep cool. While silk and cotton were used in the region before, fabricated floss and cotton threads are used instead of silk due to the high cost and the difficulty of manufacturing. In the past, weaving dyeing was done with raw materials obtained from natural resources in Buldan and its surroundings. These are resources that can be easily obtained from nature in the region such as quince seeds, pomegranate peels, walnut leaves and acorns. . Generally, the products produced are divided into two groups as piece weaving and meter weaving.
Piece weaving products:
It is a loincloth, top, towel, sheet, handkerchief, tableware. Meter weaving products are: Buldan twist, towel, awning, headscarf, lining and cross-stitch.
Until 1779, weaving in Buldan was done with primitive looms. After this date, solutions were sought for the development of weaving with the work of Buldan being a sub-district, and weavings such as headscarves, loincloths, sheets and BULDAN cloth were made with yarns from 10 to 20 numbers on looms. In 1910, a weaver named Osman SAY brought a pull (with whip) loom he saw in Istanbul to Buldan, and Buldan had the opportunity to benefit from looms with the most advanced technique of the time. Cotton and silk fabrics were woven on these looms, and these woven fabrics met various needs for years. Since the weaving tools and equipment are arranged according to the conditions of the day, motorized looms have been used since 1951. Today silk etc. Types of fine fabrics, loincloth, top cover type weavings are still woven on hand looms while other types are woven on motorized looms. The motif types that dominate in the culture of Buldan weaving are eyelet, almond, black top, beetroot, amulet. As a result of the development of technology, motifs have kept up with the times and left their place to new patterns.
Buldan Cloth;
It is a fabric that is made of very fine yarn, has sweat absorbing properties, and is also called "cress" or "twisted cloth".
It is made of wool, linen, cotton or silk thread. However, due to the cost, the production of silk yarn is less than the others, and mostly pure or fabricated cotton yarn is used.
The yarns used in the production of Buldan Cloth go through washing, dyeing, drying and winding processes. The dyed yarns are twisted and become twisted yarn. The usage area of the cloth, which will be formed according to the degree of bending, also changes. The cloth that comes out of the counter as raw, after being washed in hot soapy water, stretches transversely and gains its characteristic wrinkled structure. Although these fabrics are mostly preferred for underwear production due to their wrinkled structure, they do not stick to the body (low contact area with the body), air remains between them and provide good thermal insulation, they are also used in the production of summer outerwear and home textile products. The motifs in Turkish woven fabrics and embroidery are generally herbal. Flowers and branches such as tulips and carnations, especially in the XVI. century has been used a lot. Colors are mainly red, tile blue, sorghum, cooked quince and saffron yellow. This tradition is clearly seen in Buldan weaving and embroidery. Patterns in Buldan weaving are geometric, vegetal and barred. Also, the plating is made fringed using chain and suzani style. The colors are red, yellow and white.
While it was made on hand looms until 1779, production has continued with pull (with whip) looms since this date. In general, the shuttle looms used in Anatolia are as follows:
Andi Benches
Loincloth Counters
Shawl Benches: a) Pit Benches b) High Benches c) Whip Benches
These looms, similar to which can be seen in certain weaving regions in Anatolia, are looms with whips (double pedals) made of wood.
The most important difference of whip looms from other looms is that the shuttle is thrown by pulling the whip, not by hand.
As a result of the arrangement of weaving tools and equipment according to the conditions of the day, motorized looms have been used since 1951. Today silk etc. kind of fine fabrics, loincloth, top, cover type weavings are still woven on hand looms and motorized looms.
Mostly 20/1 multi-twisted 100% cotton yarn is used for Buldan Cloth. All of these yarns are called “limp yarn” because they have more twist than normal. 20 and 20/2 threads are used for both warp and weft. The cotton thread used in Buldan Cloth has 2.54-25 twists per inch (28 cm).
skeins dipped in colored water After waiting for 1-2 hours, it is squeezed and dried on poles. Although natural dyes made from thuja, laurel, walnut leaves, acorn, liquorice, chestnut, onion peel and buckthorn leave their place to chemical dyes today; It is seen that the golden yellow acorn is still used for dyeing textiles. After the hanks of the threads have dried then it is put on the spinning wheels and made of wood for warp preparation and “age" It is wound on so-called coils. For semi-automatic weaving looms, the warps are taken from the yarn factory in ready-made bobbins.
The bobbin ends are hung on a hanger called a warp.. In order not to mix the yarn ends, it is passed through a comb-shaped balancer and a ball is obtained. The yarns taken from this ball with the help of hand are passed to the combs as a result of the yarn removal process called the shed. These combs are two pieces as a requirement of weaving a plain foot. thread ends here rush It is passed to the combs of the loom with the help of the table called. Dem and frames are mounted on the bench and the hank is hung on the bench.
Yarn winding device called Elemle bobbin is wound. It is woven into the fabric.
The three basic mechanisms of weaving are shedding, weft insertion and tampering. Each warp thread is passed through a strength eye. When a weft is thrown in accordance with the weave of the fabric to be woven, the warps that should be on this weft are lifted up by these forces. Thus, an opening called the nozzle is formed, through which the shuttle will pass, and is rebuilt for each weft. To create the mouthpiece at least two frames are needed. The weft thread is passed through the shed, which is formed by the separation of the warp into two layers, by means of a shuttle, which is called weft insertion. Buldan Cloth is made by performing the tamping or tampering process with a comb through which the warp threads are passed in order to push the weft thread, which is separate from the fabric because it has just been thrown, to include it in the fabric.
The fabric coming out of the loom has a flat appearance, when wetted, the fabric shrinks transversely and acquires its characteristic wrinkled structure. The fabric is wrapped in the machine and bleaching (pre-treatment) is done at 95°C and the fabric is purified from the size, lice and oils on it. Dyeing is done between 65°C and 85°C. After dyeing, soap washes are made between 80°C and 95°C. Then the softener is given and removed from the machine. The fabric removed from the machine is squeezed in the centrifuge machine, opened in the product opening, and then dried by passing through the rotisserie machine. The dried fabric is rolled into balls after passing through the quality control stage.
Buldan Cloth to be used for clothing; 80 cm, 125 cm, 185 cm wide; It is produced as raw, striped, solid color and printed.
Buldan Cloth to be used for home textiles; Named with local names, 80 cm, 90 cm, 100 cm, 170 cm, 210 cm, 240 cm and 250 cm wide;
It is produced as plain colored, striped, patterned or plaid as piqué, drapery, bed linen, duvet cover, tablecloth and loincloth.
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