Braids Derived from Twill Weave
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- Created on Monday, 07 December 2015 00:13
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- Published on Monday, 07 December 2015 00:13.
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- Braids Derived from Twill Weave writer Faik KeserPosted by %PM, 08% 840% 2017 22%:%Nov in Pattern Read 3224 times
1-CROSS TWILL BRAIDES
A.- Cross twill weave in the warp direction
B.- Cross twill weave in the weft direction
2.-CUT twill weaves
A.- Cut twill weave in the weft direction
B.- Cut twill weave in the warp direction
3-BROKEN TWILL BRAIDES
A.- Broken twill weave in the warp direction
B.- Broken twill weave in the weft direction
4-Herringbone Twill Braidsİ
A.- Herringbone weave in the warp direction
B.- Herringbone weave in the weft directionü
5 –DIAGONAL TWILL BRAID
A.-Diagonal Twill Weave in Warp Direction
B.- Weft Direction Diagonal Twill Weave
6.-SHADED TWILL KNIT
A.- Shaded twill weave in the warp direction
a.- Half shaded twill weaves
b.-Full shaded twill weaves
B.- Shaded twill weave in the weft direction
a.- Half shaded twill weaves
b.-Full shaded twill weaves
1-Cross Twill Weave
It is the twill weave derivative obtained as a result of the displacement of the movements in the given knitting pattern. It is obtained by substituting any twill weave pattern in the warp or weft direction from half to the beginning.
Cross twill weaves are used for weaving dress, coat, jacket and cover fabrics.
A-Warp Cross Twill Weave
The given twill weave pattern is divided into two equal parts in the warp direction. In the first area, it is embroidered in half in accordance with the twill weave technique. In the second area, the twill weave report is processed from the end to the beginning and the knitting is completed. When choosing the twill weave pattern, it is important to make sure that it has even numbers so that it can be divided into two equal parts.
B-Weft Direction Cross Twill Weave
The given twill knitting pattern is divided into two equal parts in the weft direction. In the first area, it is embroidered in half in accordance with the twill weave technique. In the second field, the twill weave pattern is processed from the end to the beginning, and the knitting is completed. While choosing the twill weave pattern, it should be noted that it is of even numbers so that it can be divided into two equal parts.
2-Cut Twill Weave
It is a twill weave derivative in which an image is created by breaking the twill paths without changing the direction.
A-Warp Cut Twill Weave
The given twill weave pattern is formed by lining up the warp yarn groups that repeat side by side in the warp direction. In the first area, it is processed in accordance with the twill knitting pattern technique. In the second field, the opposite of the filled ones is marked as empty and the opposite of the empty ones as full and the twill weave is processed according to this report. It is continued until the following groups repeat the report and knitting is completed.
B-Weft Direction Cut Twill Weave
The given twill weave pattern is formed by arranging the weft yarn groups that repeat side by side in the weft direction. In the first area, it is processed in accordance with the twill knitting pattern technique. In the second field, the filled ones are marked as empty and the empty ones as full, and according to this report, the twill weave is processed. It is continued until the following groups repeat the report and knitting is completed.
3-Broken Twill Weave
Broken twill weaves are weaves formed by the change of direction of the twill diagonal after half of the weave pattern. A broken twill weave can be created in the warp and weft directions from a twill weave pattern. Broken twill weaves; jackets, coats, skirts, etc. It is used for weaving fabrics.
A-Warp Direction Broken Twill Weave
These are the weaves formed by enlarging a pattern in the warp direction of the given twill weave pattern. After the knitting pattern given to the first area is drawn in accordance with the technique, it is drawn in the second area to form a path in the opposite direction of the twill path of the first knitting pattern.
B-Weft Side Broken Twill Weave
These are the weaves formed by enlarging the twill weave pattern in the weft direction of the given twill pattern. After the knitting pattern given to the first area is drawn in accordance with the technique, it is drawn in the second area to form a path in the opposite direction of the twill path of the first knitting pattern.
4-Herringbone Twill Weave
These weaves are twill weaves, in which the twill diagonal changes direction after half of the knitting pattern and is drawn as full versus empty spaces. Herringbone weaves are used in weaving fabrics for jackets, skirts, overcoats, suits and overcoats.
A-Warp Direction Herringbone Twill Weave
In the herringbone twill weave drawing in the warp direction, the main weave is drawn. After the last warp, the solids in the last warp are written as empty, and the blanks are filled with. If the main weave is right-handed, the second part is drawn left-handed, and if the main weave is left-handed, the second part is drawn right-way. In herringbone twill weaves in the warp direction, the number of warps in the pattern is twice that of the main weave, and the number of wefts is equal to the number of wefts in the base twill weave pattern.
B-Weft Direction Herringbone Twill Weave
In the drawing of herringbone twill weave in the weft direction, the main weave is drawn. After the last scarf, empty is written against the full ones in the last scarf, and full is written against the empty ones. If the main weave is right-handed, the second part is drawn left-handed, and if the main weave is left-handed, the second part is drawn right-way. In herringbone twill weaves in the weft direction, the number of warps in the pattern is as much as the warp number of the main weave, and the number of wefts is twice the number of wefts in the twill weave pattern.
5-Diagonal Twill Weave
Twill weaves with two or more jumps upwards are called diagonal twill weaves. As a result, the twill paths (diagonals) form different angles instead of an angle of 45 degrees. Diagonal twill weaves are used for weaving fabrics for women's dresses, jackets and trousers.
A-Warp Direction Diagonal Twill Weave
Basic twill weaves are used to obtain diagonal twill weaves in the warp direction. The drawing method of diagonal twill weaves is the same as the drawing methods of regular twill weaves. While calculating the report area of the diagonal twill weave in the warp direction, the value obtained by dividing the given twill pattern wire number by the number of skips is taken into account. If the number of report wires is not divisible by the number of jumper wires, the number of report warp and weft wires is equal to the number of report wires. In case of complete division, the number of division values obtained gives the number of warp wires, and the number of report wires gives the number of weft wires.
B-Weft Direction Diagonal Twill Weave
Basic twill weaves are used to obtain diagonal twill weaves in the weft direction. After the twill weave is drawn, the first weft yarn movement of the weave is marked as the first weft yarn in the report area of the weave to be created. Knitting is created by shifting the connection points in the direction of the weft yarn according to the number of jumps. While calculating the report area of the diagonal twill weave in the weft direction, the value obtained by dividing the given twill pattern wire number by the number of skips is taken into account. If the number of report wires is not divisible by the number of jumper wires, the number of report warp and weft wires is equal to the number of report wires. In case of complete division, the number of division values obtained gives the number of weft wires, and the number of report wires gives the number of warp wires.
6-Shaded Twill Weave
Shaded twill weaves are weaves in which the shadow effect is given to the fabric by a gradual transition from warp twill to weft twill or from weft twill to warp twill.
A-Warp Shaded Twill Weave
Shaded twill weave in the warp direction is obtained in two ways as full shaded and half shaded. Full or half shaded twill weaves formed in the warp direction are mostly applied on jacquard weaving machines as many frames are needed depending on the twill pattern given.
a-Half shaded twill weave
It is obtained by converting the given weft twill weave pattern into warp twill. The number of warp wires to be used for half shaded twill weave in the warp direction is determined as the value obtained as a result of multiplying the given number of twill weave report wires and the number of report wires minus one. The weft wire number is taken as the given twill weave report wire number. The given weave is drawn. A new report is written next to it. 1 full is added to the previous knitting, this process is continued until 1 is empty.
b-Full shaded twill weave
It is formed by continuing the weft twill weave pattern after it turns into a warp twill weave pattern until it turns into a weft twill weave pattern again. The number of warp wires to be used for full shaded twill weave in the warp direction is determined as the value obtained by subtracting two reports from twice the value obtained as a result of the product of the given twill weave report wire number and one less report wire number. The weft wire number is taken as the given twill weave report wire number.
The given weave is drawn. A new report is written next to it. 1full is added to the previous weave. This process continues until 1 is left empty. Then, the process is continued until the report is repeated by decreasing again.
B- Weft Direction Shaded Twill Weave
Shaded twill weave in the weft direction is obtained in two ways as full shade and half shade. Half shaded twill weave is obtained by converting the given weft twill pattern to warp twill. The full shaded twill weave is formed by continuing the weft twill weave pattern until it turns into a warp twill weave pattern and then again into a weft twill weave pattern.
a- In the weft direction half shaded twill weave
The number of weft wires to be used for the half shaded twill weave in the weft direction is determined as the value obtained as a result of the product of the given twill weave report wire number and the one minus of the report wire number. The warp wire count is taken as the given twill weave report wire count.
b- Full shaded twill weave in the weft direction
The number of weft wires to be used for the full shaded twill weave in the weft direction is determined as the value obtained by subtracting two reports from the twice the value obtained as a result of the product of the given twill weave report wire number and one less report wire number. The warp wire count is taken as the given twill weave report wire count.
