ecological print

Leaves, stems, bark, etc. of plants. It is the transfer or leaving the shape of the parts to the fabric by boiling them in water. Fabric to be used etc. The fact that the material is mordanted before starting the "boiling in water" technique increases the permanence of color and shape. Fabrics used in the printing process, linen, cotton, wool, silk, etc. It has to be completely natural.

  • ecological print

    Damages caused by chemical paints, environmental pollution, awareness of people towards the environment, etc. For these reasons, new searches have started in the textile sector that do not harm the recyclable nature and ecological textiles have emerged.

     

    ecological textilesis the production of harmless products that are completely compatible with nature in the process from fiber to product.

     

     

    ecological print

     

     

    fabric, paper, leather, felt, etc. with materials that have dyestuffs in nature. It is a printing method used to transfer the natural colors and shapes of the dyestuffs used on the surfaces to the surface.

    In ecological printing, which is very popular today and started to be applied by many artists, fastness measurements of the products are not made. However, in ecological printing, to increase the durability of products against physical and chemical factors. high fastness levels it is important to be. It has been determined that ecological prints made with plants on cotton and silk fabrics have good fastness levels.

    The textile industry is to produce products that we need in every aspect of our lives, durable products according to environmental conditions and the way people use it. The history of textiles began with the use of animal skins by the first people to cover themselves. People who have been admiring the colors of nature since ancient times did not want to use colors in nature in all areas. Many dyestuffs have been obtained from nature for reasons such as looking beautiful and influencing others. In natural dyeing, which started with the imitation of the colors in nature, stone, soil and mineral types were used first, and then dyestuffs were obtained from animals and plants.

     

     

    Today, natural dyestuffs; 

     

    • Animal
    • Mineral
    • Vegetable

      

    It is divided into 3 groups.

      

    Animal dyestuffs

      

    Shellfish, flea beetles, lacquer beetles and sea snails.

      

    with mineral dyestuffs 

     

     copper arsenite, ultramarine etc. mineral compounds.

      

    Vegetable dyes 

     

    Roots, stems, flowers, bark, etc. of plants.

     

    In order for the dyestuff obtained from plants to have good properties, the soil and climatic conditions of the plant and the collection time must be suitable. In the historical development process, natural dyestuffs have been replaced by chemical dyestuffs with the development of science and technology. However, in recent years, new searches have started in textile manufacturers due to reasons such as the harm caused by chemical dyes to human health and environmental pollution, and environmentally friendly textiles and natural dyes have come to the fore again. The ecological balance phenomenon of people has led to the search for harmless ecological textiles in the world textile sector and has revealed "Ecological Textiles" in the world market. Ecological textile is defined as obtaining completely harmless products from fiber to product and then recycling the product.

    One of the areas that has an important place among ecological textiles is ecological pressure. Ecological printing; fabric, special paper, leather, etc. with materials that have dyestuffs in nature. It is a printing method used to transfer the natural colors and shapes of the dyestuffs used on the surfaces to the surface.

    Ecological printing, which is one of the natural printing and dyeing methods, is a Paga custom that started with Easter before Christianity and was carried out by making various decorations on eggs. In Poland, eggs are painted by wrapping various plants. “Pisanka” called eggs.

     

    For the dyeing process;

     

    • Onion peel (brown),
    • Oak, alder or walnut bark (black),
    • rye sprouts (green),
    • Flower petals of hibiscus (violet),
    • Marigold and young apple bark (golden yellow)

     

    It is used.

     

    Natural dyeing and ecological printing technique discovered in 1986 of India Flint With its application on fabric, it has taken an important place in the world textile industry.

     

    As a solution in ecological printing;

     

    • Protein
    • Iron
    • Virgin
    • Aluminum solutions

     

    In the mordanting of fabrics;

     

    • Alum (KAI(SO4)2)
    • Aluminum sulfate (Al2(SO4)3)
    • Ferrous sulfate (FeSO4)
    • Cream of tartar (KC4H5O6)
    • sea ​​water
    • Çay / Tea
    • ash clear
    • Yoghurt
    • Whey

     

    It is used.

     

    Ecological printing methods are as follows;

     

    • boiling in water
    • rust painting (RustDyeing)
    • keeping it in a jar
    • by burying
    • It's hitting

     

    In ecological printing;

     

    • pitiful,
    • Maple,
    • vine leaves,
    • poinsettia,
    • calendula flower,
    • indigo,
    • Pine tree,
    • walnut leaves,
    • Sycamore leaves,
    • strawberry leaves,
    • Bay,
    • Fern,
    • Basil,
    • Freesia,
    • ginko,
    • The green and petals of the rose plant,
    • hollyhock flower,
    • nettle leaf,
    • Fig,
    • Black pepper,
    • Clove,
    • chestnut leaf,
    • labada,
    • lemon leaf,
    • Mint,
    • Pomegranate,
    • Eucalyptus,
    • Hydrangea,
    • acorn leaf,
    • pelit,
    • orange leaf,
    • geranium leaf,
    • onion peel,
    • autumn leaves,
    • Sumac,
    • ornamental plum,
    • Jasmine,
    • Olive leaf,
    • purple cabbage

     

    The plants are used.

    It is important for ecological products that the materials used are natural. The physical and chemical properties of natural fabrics have positive environmental characteristics compared to synthetic fabrics. The ecological printing method, which has a popular place among textile artists recently, is produced as clothing and accessory products, but the fastness properties of the products are not taken into account. The high fastness level of ecological printing products has an important place in terms of the longevity of the products and their resistance to external factors. In the process of obtaining dye from plants, the plants are used as dried or fresh, as well as as pigment or extract. Dry and ground parts of the plants are mixed homogeneously.

    The dye-giving parts of the plant are separated and the solution is purified from alcohol in an oxygen-free environment. The mixture, which has a dense consistency, is turned into powder with a spray drying machine (SprayDryer) and pigment is obtained. Fiber, yarn, fabric etc. with pigment or extract dyestuffs. textiles are colored. In addition, the crown, green leaf, root, stem, etc. of plants. Ecological printing is created by using the parts directly on the fabric surfaces.

     

    Ecological Printing Applications

     

    Leaves, stems, bark, etc. of plants. It is the transfer or leaving the shape of the parts to the fabric by boiling them in water. Fabric to be used etc. The fact that the material is mordanted before starting the "boiling in water" technique increases the permanence of color and shape. Fabrics used in the printing process, linen, cotton, wool, silk, etc. It has to be completely natural.

     In the "boiling in water" method, a stretch film should be covered on a flat surface and the cloth soaked in white vinegar water should be laid on this surface. Plants are arranged on the used fabric surface in a design order, and by placing a heat-resistant wooden or plastic roller on the right or left side of the fabric, it is started to be wrapped and wrapped tightly to the other side of the fabric. The top of the fabric wrapped roll is tightly wrapped with woolen thread to increase the contact between the plants and the fabric. The printing roll, which is boiled for 1,5 hours in the boiling cauldron with its mouth closed, is opened and dried in an airy environment.

    Plants collected from the same tree in the "boiling in water" method sometimes do not give the same results, even if the same conditions are met. This makes the printing made with plants unique and unique. There are many factors such as providing suitable conditions in plant printing, whether the plant is wet or dry, collection time, whether it has been kept waiting before, the amount of solution used, the frequency of wrapping the fabric, the thread used while wrapping, the pipe used, the boiling time, the pH ratio of the water. The climatic condition of the region where the plants are collected affects the amount of water in the plant and differs in its shape and color. Acetic water with a pH below 7 causes the color to turn black, while a basic pH above 7 causes the color to be in shades of green. It was observed that when the boiling time is below 1,5 hours, the shape of the plant is formed, but it does not give its color completely. Eucalyptus, silverocalyptus, white daisy, purple daisy, ornamental plum, green leaf of rose after being procured from nature eBefore starting the chemical printing process, the printing recipe was prepared.

    Below is an example of printing recipe prepared for cotton and silk fabric with eucalyptus plant.

     

     

     

     

    ekobsk1

     

     

     

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    Process steps

     

    • Plants collected from nature are kept in a container with 1 tablespoon of white vinegar and 1 liter of water for 15 minutes.

     

     

     

     

     

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    • Pre-washing is done for 40 hour by weighing 1% of the silk or cotton fabric with olive oil soap or washing soda.

     

     

     

     

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    • Pre-washed fabrics are mordanted with 40% alum by keeping them in water for 1 night.
    • A solution is prepared by keeping 1 liter water/1 liter vinegar/copper or nails in an empty jar for 15 days.

     

     

     

    ekobsk5 

     

     

     

    • A flat surface is covered with a stretch film and a cloth moistened with vinegar water is laid on it.
    • The plants, which have been kept for 15 minutes, are dipped into the solution and dried, and the composition is established on the fabric surface.

     

     

     

     

    ekobsk6

     

     

    • A garden hose is placed on the right or left side of the fabric and wrapped tightly together with the stretch film.
    • The wrapped fabric is covered with stretch film again and the roll is tightly wrapped with woolen thread. The steel pot is boiled for 1,5 hours.

     

     

     

    ekobsk7

     

     

    • After the boiling process is over, the roll is rested for 30 minutes and opened and dried in an airy environment.

    The cotton and silk fabric trials with ecological printing are shown below.

     

     

     

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    ekobsk16

     

     

     

    Fastness Values ​​of Ecological Print Designs

     

    Fastness is the durability of the dyed or printed textile product against the physical and chemical factors it encounters during the production or use, taking into account its own characteristics.

     

    Fastnesses;

     

    • fabrication
    • Fastness of use

     

    As it is separated.

     

    Fabrication fastnesses, It is not affected by the finishing processes applied after dyeing or printing works,

    If the fastness of use It shows the resistance of the products to the factors that will be exposed during use.

     

    In fastness tests, a dye;

     

    • Washing
    • Sweating
    • Light fastness

     

    Differences can be seen in their resistance, and the fact that one of the fastnesses is high does not mean that the other fastness will be high.

    In the study, the fastness values ​​of the prints made on cotton fabric were measured as follows, according to silverocalyptus, eucalyptus, rose petal, purple daisy, white daisy and ornamental plum plants;

     

     

    ekobsk17 

     

     

     

    ekobsk18

     

     

    When the above tables are examined;

     

    Made with iron solution on cotton fabric Flow fastness in washing fastness, It was observed that the white daisy plant was at a very good level, the eucalyptus, ornamental plum and silverocalyptus plants were at a very good level, the wilting fastness was at a very good level in the silverocalyptus, rose leaf, purple daisy, ornamental plum, and white daisy plants.

     

    Considering the light fastness, silverocalyptus and rose leaf were at a good level, and the eucalyptus plant was at a very good level.

    Friction fastness When looked at, it was seen that the wet friction fastness was at a very good level in the rose leaf and at a very good level in the white chamomile plant.

    Dry friction fastnessIt is at a very good level in rose leaf, purple daisy, ornamental plum, white daisy plants, and at a very good level in silverocalyptus and eucalyptus plants.

     

     

    ekobsk19

     

     

    When the above table is examined;

     

    made with iron solution on silk fabric Flow fastness in washing fastness, silverocalyptus and purple daisy plant at a very good level, ornamental plum plant at a very good level, white daisy and rose leaf at a good level, eucalyptus plant at a moderate level,

    fading fastness Silverocalyptus and purple daisy plants were at a very good level, ornamental plum plants were at a good level, rose petals were at a good level, and white daisy and eucalyptus plants were at a moderate level.

    Light fastness When looked at, it was seen that rose leaf and eucalyptus plants were at a very good level, silverocalyptus and white daisy were at a very good level, purple daisy and ornamental plum plants were at a low level.

    Friction fastness When looked at, it was seen that the wet and friction fastness was very good in rose leaf, purple daisy, white daisy plants, and quite good in silverocalyptus, eucalyptus and ornamental plum plants.

     

     

     

     

    Posted by %PM, 03%800%2020 21%:%Aug in Printing Read 3351 times

ecological print