Bu Both groups are divided into subgroups as yarn effect and spinning effect.
-Yarn effect (Fancy yarn by twisting) :Here, fancy yarn is obtained by directly twisting yarns (different lengths and numbers) with each other.
-Espinning effect (Fancy yarn by spinning): Here, fancy yarn is obtained by winding filaments on rovings or tapes by passing them through the drafting system.
Fancy yarns are yarns that are produced mostly for visual and aesthetic purposes, with irregularities created by changing their properties such as shape, material, twist, color, randomly or in a planned manner in their structure along their length.
In the production of fancy yarns;
and tasarım techniques are used.
Above şseen in the cropğa fancy yarn like ü basically, even core or groundşwidth, even effectşwidth and bağlayıcı bileşbe longşmakadır. General production principle of fancy yarns; ground ropeğmake image with iı ipliğini, h of the secondızı register to be higherıdifferent withı hıto the bending area at the ends and then a bondğlayıcı bileşsa by applying a reverse twist withğslideştırmaktır.There are also fancy yarn types that do not follow this principle. These;
ground slub yarns,
“flake” (very long slub yarn)
and nep threads.
Fancy yarn production continues to this day with the addition of various apparatus to ring machines, open-end rotor machines, dref machines, draw frames and carding machines and with dyeing, blending and different finishing processes. Before the invention of the hollow spindle process, the most used system was two-stage ring twisting. In the first stage, a fancy effect is obtained with proper feeding. In the next stage, this yarn is fixed with a binding yarn or these yarns, which are wound on the bobbins, are then transferred directly to the double-ply bobbin machine. The idea of the hollow spindle process, which is the idea of producing fancy yarn with a single step instead of two or more stages, was introduced by Prof. George Mitov developed it. In recent years, the fancy yarn industry has shown a great development. Especially the competition of big companies and the fashion of fancy yarns are the most important factors of this development. Saurer-Allma, Gemmill & Dunsmore, Lezzani, Bigagli, Mackie and Galan are the leading companies in the market. Fancy yarns are classified from different aspects.
These classifications are:
1-Fancy yarns according to their structure
2-Fancy yarns according to the effect method
3-Fancy yarns according to the methods of obtaining
4-Fancy yarns according to the given effects
Classification of fancy yarns according to their structure
Classification according to their structure
1-Fancy yarns are single ply,
2-Effect folded twisted
It is divided into 3 as fancy yarns:
Single Ply Fancy Yarns
Single-ply yarns are yarns that come out as a single ply during spinning. There are two principles in their production: Obtaining slub yarn formed in the ring and Knit the Knit principle.
Effect Ply Fancy Yarns
This type of yarn is obtained from more than one material and by folding and twisting them. Different twisting methods are needed for the production of these yarns.
Knitting Fancy Yarns
These yarns are knitted fancy yarns knitted in RL knitting principle with 2-3-4-8-10 or 12 needles in knitting machines and used to obtain bulky, fuller knitting sweaters. These yarns are divided into three as RL plain (plain) knitting yarns, RL fancy (pile-bearded) knitting yarns and RL fancy twisted bearded knitting yarns.
Classification of Fancy Yarns According to Effect Methods
Formation of fancy yarns in classification according to effect methods.
It is divided into two
Giving Effects to Fancy Yarns According to the Direct Method
According to this method, the process of giving effect to fancy yarns is carried out directly on fancy twisting machines. In this method, effect formation can occur in 4 different ways:
1-By changing shots
2- By feeding additional effect material
3-With different belt feeding method
With the addition of 4-linear material.
Effects according to these methods can be done by adding additional apparatus to them by making use of fancy twisting machines, ring twisting machines and new yarn spinning technologies.
Giving Effects to Fancy Yarns According to the Indirect Method
This method is based on the principle of making the necessary arrangements in fancy twisting machines during normal yarn production. They are generally applied in ring spinning machines and are effects that can also be applied in Open-end Rotor (open-end) spinning. The places of production of these effects; ring spinning machine, blowroom, carding machine, draw frame, roving frame. The construction method is; belt feeding, nope interleaving, dyeing and raising.
Classification of Fancy Yarns According to Obtaining Methods
When examined in terms of obtaining methods, fancy yarns;
1-Twist and way
3-Fancy yarns produced by other methods
can be divided into three groups.
Creating Fancy Yarn by Twisting and Pulling
The basis in this method, which is obtained in fancy twisting machines; the effect is winding the main thread and fixing these two with a binding thread. Fancy yarns obtained by twisting are obtained as a result of twisting yarns of different lengths and various numbers with each other in the twisting machine, while fancy yarns obtained by drawing; They are obtained as a result of filament winding on the main yarn used as a roving or band.
Fancy yarn by Knitting Method formation
Fancy yarn creation by knitting method is done in warp knitting machines with flat construction with needle oscillation or circular knitting machines.
Creating Fancy Yarn with Other Methods
The texturing method is divided into three groups as the Knit the Knit (Knitting-unscrewing) principle and the creation of fancy yarn with the air system.
1-Creating Fancy Yarn by Heat in Texturized Fancy Yarn Machines
According to the applied shaping and heat treatments, buttonholes gain features such as volume, mattness, shine and warm touch at different levels.
2- Fancy Yarn Production with the Knit-The-Knit Principle
With this method, the yarns are first knitted in a special knitting machine in order to obtain fancy yarn. The knitted structure is treated with heat in fixation boilers and flicked and then left to cool. The cooled knitted surface is then disassembled in the dismantling machine and wound onto the bobbin.
3- Centered Yarn Production with Air System
Centering; It is a process carried out in order to create intermingled sections (tailstock) between the separated sections of the filaments by sending a cold air stream on the filament yarn, and thus to form a collective structure with intermittent centers throughout the yarn.
Classification of Fancy Yarns According to Given Effects
In classification according to the given effects, fancy yarns;
1-uncontrolled effect threads
2-control effect threads
It is divided into two.
Uncontrolled effect yarns an additional yarn is fed continuously to the main yarn, either at the same time or at a higher speed. The difference between the two speeds creates the effect.
Controlled effect yarns, There are many control systems that operate at the feeding speed of both the main yarn and the effect yarn. With these control systems, the accumulation points of the material are determined and the process is carried out in a certain place, and the effect can be programmed in advance. These two groups are also within themselves;
divided into subgroups.
Fancy yarn in yarn effect, which is obtained by twisting, is obtained as a result of directly twisting yarns of different lengths and numbers with each other. In the spinning effect, which is obtained by drawing fancy yarn, fancy yarn, roving or tapes are passed through the drafting system and wrapped with filaments.
UNCONTROLLED EFFECT YARNS
In uncontrolled yarns, an additional yarn is continuously fed to the main yarn either simultaneously or at a higher speed. The difference in speeds creates the effect. The effects part of yarn effects consists of a yarn or filament yarn.
A-Uncontrolled Yarn Effects
B-Uncontrolled Spinning Effects
3-Spinning Loop Yarn
CONTROLLED EFFECT YARNS
These yarns are formed by the accumulation of yarn or fiber on the basic yarn or yarns at continuous and discontinuous intervals. So they are pre-programmed.
A-Controlled Yarn Effects
B-Controlled Spinning Effects
1-Spinning Pile Yarn
2-Piece Pile Yarn
3-Spinning Knurling Yarn
4-Full Curl Yarn