There are 2 types of gimmicks commonly used.
1-Polyester guipure
2-Nylon(pa) gipe
Gipe is not a type of yarn produced. For example, if we consider 20/70 or 40/70 guipure, which is frequently used in the market, 20/70 guipe is the yarn that is produced by centering 20 denier lycra and 70 denier texturized polyester yarn together.
The situation is the same in 40/70. If you center 40 denier lycra and 70 denier polyester yarn, you will have 40/70 polyester guipure.
Gipe=Lycra polyester yarn or Lycra nylon yarn.
This category includes bare yarns with stretching properties, produced from raw materials such as elastane (elastomer), rubber, rubber. Lycra, Radici Spandex, Linel, Creora, Texlon, Acelan etc. bare elastane (elastomer) yarns referred to by brands are included in this category.
Processes for the Production of a Good Fabric with Gipe Yarn;
Tension should be kept low in knitting machines. The fabric should be wound with low tension. The fabric should be wrapped in a wrinkle-free roll. Fabric rolls should not be stacked densely on top of each other and stored. It should not be kept in storage in such a way as to form a fracture trace. It should not be kept in the same form for more than two months. Care should be taken in the selection of the knitting machine oil to be used. Heat-fixing at high temperatures should be avoided against the danger of yellowing. Hot stretching should be avoided.
The liquor ratio should be increased by 100-20% compared to 30% cotton work, Since fabrics containing elastane are 100% heavier than the equivalent 25% cotton fabric, the rope length of the fabric loaded into the machine should be reduced, The bath should not be shock cooled.
Pre-fixing Processes of Circular Knitted Fabrics with Gipe Yarn;
Since tube cutting is required for thermofixing (this process is not required for open-width fabrics), wet processing cannot be performed unless the fabric is hemmed again. In general, all fabrics containing 5% or more elastane and knitted with full elastane are heat-fixed. Otherwise, there is a danger of fracture.
Here, practically every knitted fabric that shrinks or gathers more than expected in the heat test, and requires weight stability, should be heat-fixed.
The benefits of these processes can be listed as follows;
It prevents shrinkage before wet processes.
Controls edge curling.
It prevents color bleeding.
Cracks that may occur in painting are prevented.
Fabric width and weight are controlled before dyeing.
ELASTHANE COATED (GIPE) YARNS
The yarn obtained by combining the yarn with elastane in order to give high elastomeric properties (stretch-rebound) to normal yarns. gimped yarn is called. Gipe threads can stretch under force and return to their own length when the force is removed. gimped yarn; It can be obtained as a result of combining textured yarns with elastane with the help of compressed air (in gipe machines) or by feeding elastane directly during the texturing process (Combi texturing machines). In addition, twisting is becoming increasingly common in the production of gimped yarn. Filament yarns and natural fibers can be twisted with elastane as single and double ply; In this way, it is ensured that the elastane is completely trapped inside the fiber and has an invisible structure on the fabric surface.
Types of elastane coated threads:
- Ecru Elastane Coated Yarns
- Black Elastane Covered Yarns
- Melange Elastane Covered Yarns
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