In the analysis of jacquard fabrics, the knitting analysis and the extraction of the pattern (motif) are done separately. Because many times the pattern report is quite large. The lattice analysis is carried out by analyzing the regions with different lattice units separately in visual examinations.
There are several methods for pattern removal.
1st method: fabric
It is to transfer this motif to a paper with a pen by placing a transparent paper on it and following the pattern. The paper used can be tissue paper, tracing or greaseproof paper.
Method 2: Pattern
is to determine on paper by dipping it into the fabric on the contours of the pattern using a pin instead of a pencil. In geometric patterns, the pattern can be easily removed by measuring with a ruler.
Things to know in jacquard fabric manufacturing
capacity of the 1st jacquard
2. Standard thread counts
3. Frequency of mallions per cm in the lower mortar
4. Mallion arrangement on the counter
Things to know to make a new jacquard fabric
1. The width of the fabric to be woven
2. Deciding whether to be single width or double width
3. Weft and warp density in cm
4. Comb number
5. Number of wires passing through the comb tooth
6. Platinum number (needs to know the needles and their properties)
7. How many mallion threads will be tied to each sinker
8. How many reports will the Malyon filling board have
9. What will be the total number of warp wires of the fabric to be woven?
10. What will be the comb width
11. What will be the draw percentage from the weaving
12. Malyon array (flat, symmetrical)
Operations in Analysis of a Jacquard Fabric
1. The weave of the fabric is removed. ( ground, mallion )
2. Dimensions of the pattern pattern (weft, warp)
3. Conditions of fabric width (raw fabric width, weft shrinkage, reed width)
4. Length of warp (product length, warp shrinkage, desired length)
5. Yarn density (warp density, weft density, number of report strands)
6. Grout density ( warp density )
7. Draw-in of the warp
8. Malyon count (warp wire count)
9. Number of weft wires (weft height of motif, number of cartons of jacquard)
10. Punching the pattern cardboard
11. Platinum and mallion capacity (warp count and carton count are related to weft)
jacquard fabric
Jacquard patterning is the process used to obtain images with very large patterns, even poster size. Different motifs are obtained by creating knitting information and color information.
Areas of use of jacquard fabrics = Upholstery, curtains, tapestry fabrics, drapes, ties, labels, blankets, tapes, woven towels, velvets, carpets.
Jacquard Fabrics are Touched on Two Principles;
1. Jacquard fabrics woven into fixed weaves (tapestry technique)
2. Color-effect jacquard fabrics (non-woven, terry velvet carpet group)
NOTE= After all preliminary information is gathered and interpreted, the main idea of the design is formed. In the light of this information, pattern making begins. The pattern making process is examined in two stages. The first is the preparation stage, the second is the construction stage.
preparatory phase
1. The motif is selected and worked on.
2. The dimensions of the motif are determined.
3. Appropriate pattern paper is selected.
The work on the selected motif;
The pattern first has a determined motif. In order to design how this motif will appear on the fabric and transform it into the main pattern, corrections are made on it and brought into the desired shape.
Determining the dimensions of the motif;
The report sizes are determined under the light of various data, how many reports will appear in our pattern in the width of the finished fabric. Warp and weft sizes are written. Motif dimensions and durability on the fabric is the biggest problem.
The factors that affect the motif sizes are as follows.
a. Frequency of mallions in lower mortar
b. Warp density in cm
c. cm weft density
Selecting the pattern paper
Pattern paper is selected in accordance with the warp and weft densities, according to the report sizes on the fabric.
The construction phase
1-The motif prepared for the pattern is first enlarged on the pattern paper to make it suitable for the desired dimensions on the fabric. Human ability is very important in these studies.
2-The motif drawn on the boss paper is transferred to the pattern paper. Carbon paper is used for this process.
3- The lines of the motifs drawn on the pattern paper are matched to the square paths of the pattern paper. It is completely optional.
4-The process of coloring the motif on the pattern paper is started. This process completely depends on the will and ability of the person.
5-Warp color reports are written for the determined color (chor) on the pattern paper.
6- If the pattern is prepared for fabrics based on simple weaves such as tapestry technique, if it is prepared for each color region, a report of the weave is written by determining which weave the color regions will be woven, right next to the pattern made to specify the weave for each color region. If necessary, the weaves are transferred to the pattern paper.
Application to the counter with the pattern made
1-Pattern (motif) is programmed for the machine. (Pattern cardboard is prepared.)
2-The prepared pattern cardboard is attached to the jacquard.
3-Necessary changes are determined and made.
